Episode 6: The Real World

Last time on Mobilis Divers: On one hemisphere, Chris was looking forward to Bintangs on the beaches of Bali before flying to his brand new abode. On the other, Noelle was getting ready for the first day of her new job. Both were dreaming of fish.

dreaming of fish
Original art by Cyril Rolando

Now that I’ve finally got my head around what it means to have a full-time job again, and Chris and I have figured out the time zone calculations enough to be able to talk somewhat regularly, it’s time to share some updates!

As you’ve likely gathered, step one of our plan for world domination has officially taken place: Chris is now living in the Possibly Perfect Place (PPP). That’s right, things are starting to get real, my friends. We’ve learned quite a lot about life on the ground there already – the good, the bad and the origin story. It’s definitely an interesting place!

But first, the Utah news.

I officially worked a 5-day, 40-hour week for the first time in years (you can send your gold stars via post or sms). I’ve started settling into the routine of having a job again and, surprise, surprise, it takes up a lot of the free time I used to have in abundance. On the other hand, I am getting paid to sit at home and write this because it is already a bank holiday! Swings and roundabouts, I suppose.

I also had the opportunity to pop into the dive center where I did my little trial run last month and make some more definitive plans about what I want to do there. As it stands now, it looks like we’re aiming to get me on an instructor course near the end of the summer. Woot! I’m hoping to run as many DSD courses as possible before then (people trying diving for the very first time). It should teach me some good tricks of the trade before I work my way up to the next level (side note: If you happen to be in Utah and want to try it out, let me know! It’s always more fun for you and less intimidating for me to work with friends while I hone my skills).

Hint: If this photo looks perfectly fine to you, a DSD course might be enlightening.

On the other side of the world, Chris has also been settling into a new job while simultaneously experiencing the ups and downs of moving to a new country. After a less-relaxing-than-anticipated two days in Bali, he was relieved to finally land in the PPP. We happen to have a friend living there, so on his very first night he was already having drinks with a bunch of divers at the dive centre that also happened to be his hotel. What better entrance could you ask for?

For the first couple of days, he basked in the lush tropical greenery, the bright flowers in bloom, the pedestrian-friendly streets and the variety of dining options (there’s even Mexican!). He got excited about the eating, exploring, hiking and, of course, diving we would do there. That initial tourist perspective was pretty thrilling. I was ready to jump on a plane to go wander around with him. Then he tried to live there.

Art by Urban Sketchers Singapore

As it turns out, the Possibly Perfect Place is not just an idyllic wonderland we constructed in our minds, but an earthy, complex, full-bodied city. In other words: it’s a real place. We knew this, of course, but now that he’s on the ground we can no longer remain in our one-dimensional fantasy land. Like I said, things are starting to get real.

The biggest obstacle we can see for our business plans there is the cost. Although it’s a typical Asian country, the prices are very much not. A day of diving is more than double the rate of the surrounding areas, and we’re not entirely sure why. It’s the biggest mystery for us right now. For example, he can get a bottle of wine from Portugal (over 14,000 miles away) for about $8, but he can’t seem to find a saucepan (from probably less than 500 miles away) for less than $25. It’s bizarre.

His house hunt was also a little dispiriting. He thought he had a sweet little place lined up right by the beach with all the amenities you could hope for, but when he saw it in person the beach was not one you’d want to stroll down in the evenings after dinner. Sadly it was covered in plastic rubbish – like many beaches these days. Sigh. Unable to bear that, he ended up paying what feels like unnecessarily high rent to basically live in the ghetto.

Despite the bad stuff, though, there has definitely been some good. His ghetto is full of really friendly families who have warmly welcomed him into their neighbourhood. He’s already made friends with his co-workers and is going to BBQs and pub nights with them. He’s going for his first dive this weekend at one of the most highly acclaimed muck diving sites. And he’s met some people who are running their own businesses there – even one focused on sustainable tourism, which is truly exciting for us.

Through all the dirty beaches, burning plastic and corrugated tin huts, we are still intrigued by the potential of the PPP. When I was in Muscat, I met a few people who had been there a long time and were deeply in love with the city in a way that took me a long time to understand. Eventually, I figured it out though: they were there from the beginning.

They saw the country go from this…

Qurum, Muscat 1969

…to this…

Qurum, Muscat 2017

….in the time they lived there. They were a part of that. They taught in the schools, giving the new generation opportunities their grandparents never dreamed of. They built the roads and ports, giving more people access to better careers. And they started their own businesses, creating jobs for locals and contributing to the growth of a fledgeling nation.

The way we see it right now is this: we would feel immensely lucky to make a living doing what we love, but there’s a bigger picture for us too. While living in a brand new country may not always be ideal, or romantic, or easy, we’re fascinated by the thought of being there at the beginning, watching the country develop over the years and being part of that in whatever small way we can. It is a truly exhilarating thought for both of us, and the PPP might be our chance to do that. Only time will tell! Whale shark


Episode 5: Best Fishes for the New Year!

Last time on Mobilis DiversNoelle learned that Utah is – quite unexpectedly – a sort of interesting place to dive, so she jumped in the water immediately. 

Happy New Year to you, your family, friends and fish!

Our 2018 is already starting out with some pretty big news. In just a couple of days, Chris heads to Bali, where, for the better part of two days, he’ll sit by the pool reading books while he drinks Bintangs and eats nasi goreng until he bursts. He’s looking forward to it immensely. Then on January 8th (less than a week from today!), once he’s sufficiently relaxed and in full tropical island mode, he’ll fly to his (and maybe our!) new home: The Possibly Perfect Place!!

That’s right, folks! This is actually happening!!

For the first week, he’ll be staying basically right on the beach where there are a bunch of restaurants and bars that look out over the ocean – an ocean full of whales, dolphins and all sorts of hidden small stuff. I am SO jealous he’ll be diving there soon. I can’t wait to hear all about it! I’m also silly excited for the lively, social, full-of-music-and-art beach scene there. It’s a very welcome change from the quiet, reserved, monochromatic seaside life of Muscat, and one we’re eager to embrace with open arms.

While it won’t all be fun and games – he does start a new job on January 15th and he’ll have to find a place to live pretty quickly after he arrives – he’s incredibly excited to launch the next phase our plans. He’s been doing all sorts of research into cool places to explore (I’m particularly excited about the mountain hiking) and tasty places to eat (there’s pho!! – we lived for three years without it in Muscat). He’s even gone so far as to see what we might need to do to open a business there. We might be slightly ahead of ourselves, but we’ve been pleasantly surprised to learn that they are putting real effort into making it easier for businesses to start up and stay running. This plan might be able to take flight sooner than we thought!

Also on January 8th, but on the other side of the world (almost exactly), I’ll be starting a new job! I got a gig at a nearby university and will be helping students with financial aid stuff. I’m pretty excited to have a job again (it’s been just shy of six years) both for the paycheck and for the structure it brings to the day. It’s also nice to get back in the business world and remember what it takes to keep a place running since we might have our own to manage pretty soon.

As I mentioned last time, in December I started doing some diving in Utah! Most of it has been in the pool helping with courses, which has been pretty fun. I particularly liked the DSD students – those trying diving for the first time ever. Once they get past the initial weirdness of breathing underwater (and it is weird!!) you get to see them experience a totally alien sensation for the first time, and everyone loves it. As both a means of distraction and a way to give them practice, we set up hula hoops for them to swim through, a machine that makes bubble rings and little torpedos they can throw at each other. I had a particularly fun night when we had about 13 teenage boys in the pool together. They had a grand old time and I really enjoyed goofing around with them.

I did also get the chance to check out the crater hot spring (sneak peek above), which was definitely a unique experience. The only way I can really think to describe the atmosphere there is eerie. Light doesn’t make it very far into the murky water, so it gets dark quickly once you drop below the surface. Because it is mainly used as a training site – where students need to practice their skills underwater – they have floated several layers of PVC pipe structures that you can hold onto while you wait for everyone to get through their tasks. Because there is no fish or plant life to entertain you while you wait, they have added some…let’s go with creepy…additions to the structures. Scattered down the ropes of the frames and on bits of old wood attached to the sides, they’ve added all sorts of strange props: dinosaur skeleton models, plastic marine animals and – most creepy for me – baby dolls.

Not actually from the crater, but an equally unsettling representation.

According to the video below, there’s also a (plastic) human skeleton at the bottom along with some other palaeontology style artefacts. I definitely enjoyed the weirdness of the place and now that I’ve seen this video I want to go all the way to the bottom next time and see the hot water actually bubbling up from the mud (see the 2:00 mark).

What else is happening in 2018? I’m glad you asked! As if moving across the world, getting new jobs and trying to start our own business while we’re on opposite sides of the globe isn’t enough for one year, I’m also planning to get more diving in here (still waiting to see those sharks!), complete my instructor course and hopefully make a trip to Mexico to explore their famous cenotes (more bizarre versions of the Homestead Crater).

There’s a lot to do, but I’m excited for all we’ve got going on and to share it with you along the way. I hope your 2018 is full of adventure and excitement too!


More about molas here!


Episode 4: Desert Diving

Last time on Mobilis Divers: Noelle and Chris realised they had to go to opposite sides of the world for an unknown amount of time. It made them sad. Now they’re working on pushing their dream forward together while they’re apart. 

Salt Lake City, Utah

Despite coming to a landlocked, desert state (in the winter), I always planned to carry on diving while I’m here (ideally for free). My ultimate goal is to finish the Instructor course before we try to start our own place. It’s the next step on the professional ladder and it would be helpful for both of us to be at that level when our shop is up and running (Chris already has his certification). There are two catches though a) it’s very expensive and b) it’s something I feel under-qualified for, since I’ve mainly been guiding – not teaching – in the water.

Don’t worry though. I have a plan! I want to start assisting with classes so I can get more practice with that while I save up enough to take the course. Ideally, I would even get paid while I am helping out (I’m over this whole working for free malarky).

Good news is, it looks like that all might be happening – soon! Until this summer I had no idea there were thriving scuba centers here. I knew people did some diving in the mountain lakes or down in the desert, but that’s about it. Turns out there are four dive shops in town (who take people not only all over the state for fun dives but all over the world on diving trips). One of these plainly stood out as the best, so when I got back to Utah in November the first thing I did was pop in there and tell them I wanted to be friends.

The conversation that ensued totally blew my mind for two reasons:

1) Did you know the only warm water diving destination in the continental US (according to their site) is in Heber, Utah? The Homestead Ranch has a hot spring that is a constant 96°F/35°C. People literally ski all morning just around the corner then come here to warm up again. In January, when the temperatures can reach -18°F/-28°C outside, I could come here and dive in a t-shirt and shorts. How nuts is that!

The Homestead Ranch hot spring

2) More bizarrely, did you know there is a mini ocean in Grantsville, Utah? Really! No, seriously! With sharks and angelfish and all that jazz. I know! I had no idea either. I’ve called this state home my whole life and I knew nothing about this, but it’s real. At Sea Base, there’s another hot spring (not quite so hot as the first) that joins up with part of the Great Salt Lake. The resulting salinity is roughly that of the sea. So someone dug out four big pools and filled them with this oceany water and a bunch of rescued aquarium fish (along with both nurse and bamboo sharks!). Really!

When I planned to do some diving in Utah, I figured I would be spending my time in a tepid swimming pool or a freezing lake with crap visibility. I had no idea there was the possibility of t-shirt diving and bamboo sharks! I seriously can’t get over it.

Ok, they aren’t all tiny babies, but I would die of happiness to see this.

Needless to say, at the end of this chat I immediately asked where I could sign up. And I’m happy to announce I will be diving with them starting tomorrow! This first few times will be an “I’ll check you out while you check me out” kind of situation with them, but I’m pretty confident it will be the start of a fun time exploring what there is to see around here – while also getting myself ready for this next big step. I’m pretty excited!

There is one part, however, I am not excited for: the Americanisms. Out of the 265 dives I’ve done, 263 of them have been outside of America. That means as a diver I was raised in the metric system – and let me just say, as a user of both, metric is SO much better! It really is. Not because of any scientific relevance or improved accuracy, but because it is designed for lazy people. Europeans couldn’t be asked to spend their time working out 12ths and 7ths and crap like that! They had beaches to sit on, wine to drink and women to seduce. So they invented a system that made math a small and simple part of their life. America should consider doing the same.

Alas, as we are not there yet I will have to learn the conversions from metres to feet, bar to psi, Celsius to Fahrenheit, and litres to cubic feet (as well as metres to meters, and litres to liters). Sigh. I’ll also have to shift my perspective from sea level to altitude. Lots to learn! Luckily, I like any excuse to play in Excel, so I whipped up a few cheat sheets yesterday so it’s easier for me to remember. (Side note: Because I couldn’t find anything as clear and simple as what I made, I uploaded them to a new Resources page here in case they’re useful for anyone else!)

not a nurse shark
Taken at Sea Base. Not a nurse shark, as the site claims, but one of my dear leopard shark friends!

I’m really looking forward to getting my feet wet again this week. I’ve been out of the water more than a month – something I don’t think I’ve done since I started diving. I’ve really been missing my fishy friends from Muscat lately. But, if the internet can be believed, I might be able to visit one of their cousins right here in Utah!

Leafy-Sea-Dragon---Rapid-Bay-Smaller_WEB 2